by Thea Mair

Kicking off the ST.ART Travel Section for another semester, Thea Mair wants to show us an overlooked gem of Andalucía!

Almería, like many locations on the Spain’s Mediterranean coast, often suffers from the stereotype that it is simply another beach resort, full of sunburnt and sangria-soaked British ex-pats and tourists. It was with a degree of trepidation, and even disappointment, that I received the news in June of 2019 that I would be spending my year abroad on the Costa Almería, surrounded by what I assumed would be hordes of other Brits, when what I had craved was to experience the “real” Andalucía of Granada, Córdoba and Sevilla.

What I could not have anticipated was just how authentic an Andalusian experience I was about to have. From the free (yes, you heard right, free) tapas handed to you with every drink, to the absolute insistence that the sacred siesta is respected (if you are out and about between the hours of 3 and 5pm you are nothing short of a heretic), to the people of Almería, who are exactly as friendly, open, opinionated and delightfully crazy as you could hope for.

Almería itself is so much more than the beaches, spectacular though they are, that popularised it with Northern European tourists. It holds the only desert in Europe, meaning it was chosen by many directors to film Hollywood Westerns, especially in the 1960s. In fact, you can still visit the set of these films in the Taberna desert. Lovers of winter holidays need not fear either, as Almería also contains a large mountain range, Sierra de Los Filabres, and a portion of the famous Sierra Nevada, which see snow in the winter and where sledging and a warming cup of vino caliente can be enjoyed over the festive season. Meanwhile, the beautiful and wild landscape of the Cabo de Gato Natural Park is the ideal location for lovers of the outdoors, with plenty of options for hiking and watersports.

Almería city itself, though, is a much-overlooked destination when it comes to traveling Spain.

The Alcazaba

The Moorish influence on Andalucia can be easily felt wherever you are in the region, but Almería is the only place I have visited that felt truly separate from the modern, “European” Spain that we are familiar with. This is in part, of course, due to its desert landscape but also the imposing yet beautiful presence of the Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress from the 10th century. Wander around the enormous complex, admiring the calm pools, fountains, and olive and almond trees, based on the Quran’s descriptions of paradise, and find yourself lost in time. And when you are finished, you can enjoy some refreshing iced tea in the shade of the Alcazaba from the traditional Moroccan tea shop, Tetería Almedina.

Tapas

The tapas scene in Almería is outstanding. The birthplace of tapas, traditionally a small complimentary plate, usually a specialty of that restaurant, served with each drink bought at a bar, is considered to be Granada. However, Almería takes the generosity of the tapas tradition to a whole new level and allows patrons to choose any dish from the tapas menu to enjoy with your drink. With a surprising variety of options available, you can enjoy anything from traditional Andalusian foods such as oxtail stew, to loads of vegan options, to the most delicious, fresh seafood you could imagine, straight out of the Almería port. My personal favourite, a tiny kiosk with only outdoor seating in a sunny courtyard a mere two-minute walk from the beautiful El Zapillo beach, is Bar Lengüetas. It serves only the freshest seafood, cooked in the simplest way: on the plancha with oil and salt and a little lemon juice. Enjoy a cold beer or tinto de verano (red wine and soda) in the bright Mediterranean sunshine with some delicious “fruit of the sea” from the ever-changing menu.

El Zapillo

El Zapillo is the beach and port district of the city. The Andalusian lifestyle of Almería can truly be appreciated here, seeing families take their daily stroll along the paseo, a wide pedestrian boulevard common to most coastal towns and cities in Spain, with everyone stopping to chat to acquaintances, embracing and kissing in typical Spanish tradition. Although Almería is a city, down by the beach there is a small-town familiarity, far less touristy than some of the other beaches of the province. You cannot help but feel uplifted in El Zapillo, especially when sampling the wares of the various gelaterias along the seafront and watching the near-constant games of beach-volleyball going on. Windsurfing, kitesurfing, and sea-kayaking can also be enjoyed by the sporty and adventurous, but the general consensus is that there is no more enjoyable activity than sitting on the beach with some good friends and a few beers. And the blissful weather of mainland Spain’s sunniest region doesn’t hurt either.

ST. ART does not own the rights to any images used in this article.