By Gabrielle Hill-Smith

Over 10,000 miles away from St Andrews there is another small seaside town that, until moving here, I called home. Using my local’s knowledge of this sought-after holiday location, I am going to give you a whistle-stop tour of the greatest places to visit, stay, eat and explore if you ever make your way over to the northern coast of New South Wales, Australia.

Byron Bay has become world-famous for its laidback lifestyle, where everyone takes life at a much more leisurely pace. Not only that, Byron draws in tourists from around the globe to admire its talented buskers, try out the great surf, take Instagram-worthy photos of the white beaches with their crystal blue waters, and to try out the delicious local produce and spectacular coffee. It initially became popular with surfers and hippies during the 1970s, and since then it has been known as the place to be - a nook of paradise easily accessible from Brisbane or a short flight up from Sydney or Melbourne. A-listers such as Chris Hemsworth, Elsa Pataky, Liam Hemsworth, Matt Damon and Zac Efron have all lived in the town, bringing it into further into the public eye in recent years.

While, like St Andrews, Byron is still a pretty small town, it is buzzing with life and plenty of things to do and see in the town and the surrounding area (known as the Byron Hinterland). I have lived there on and off for years and have been told that even the locals notice the changes that Byron goes through, witnessing the tourist season grow, the long summers becoming endless. Money has entered the area with the influx of Sydneysiders, moving up to enjoy life in the countryside, away from the hubbub of the city. This has allowed the place to build up and become some of the most valuable real estate in Australia - but never fear, there are plenty of local experiences, and even the crappiest of authentic Aussie pubs for you to enjoy. I’d advise leaving a good week or more to explore the area; despite what many backpacking companies will tell you, you can’t really explore all the town has to offer in just 48 hours. Byron will want you to move slower than you may be used to, but there is more than enough to do in town and around the local area. As the sign outside Byron tells you as it welcomes you into the town, “Cheer Up, Slow Down, Chill Out.”

How do I know I am going to like Byron?

Well, you won’t know until you go, but I can tell you very few people leave Byron saying they never want to come again. Around 2 million tourists visit the town annually, many coming back again and again to explore the area, whether that be at the height of the tourist season, around Christmas, or when it’s a bit colder and quieter in the winter, around July-August, there is always something happening. If you want a beach holiday that’s full of city-side eateries, a buzzing nightlife, a great music scene, festivals, shopping, and plenty of activities to suit everyone’s tastes and abilities, then this is the place for you. The town itself is surrounded by mountainous national parks, and the sweeping bay has some of the most beautiful beaches in Australia, a country renowned for its stunning sands. You can learn to surf, pick up a new hobby or just spend your holiday exploring the area, relaxing on the sunny beaches, enjoying the coffee and sleeping in luxurious accommodation. Although, as many older locals will say to you, the town has changed dramatically in the last 20 years, there is still the iconic laidback alternative lifestyle that Byron is famous for, full of hippies, crystals, colourful hemp-clothing, weed, buskers and vegan restaurants, just with a little added Hollywood glamour of cocktails, high end fashion, surfing, fantastic nights out and stunning locations.

Can you tell me some more about the history of Byron?

Of course, I’m a history major! Firstly, it’s important to recognise the indigenous people of Byron Bay, who are the known as the Bunjalung mob of the Arakwal Bumberlin people, whose history in the region has a continuous culture going back at least 22,000 years, and their community remains an integral part of the region, as the traditional custodians of the land. They call this place Cavvanbah in the local language Minjungbal meaning ‘meeting place’, a name which still resonates today, as the small seaside town draws people from all over the world to meet in the astonishing bay. The land is part of the eroded volcanic caldera of the Tweed Volcano that last erupted 23 million years ago, creating the fertile countryside in the sub-tropical rainforest and coastal area. European invasion of the area started when James Cook’s voyage around the coast of Australia, and named the Cape, which is the most easterly point of the continent, Cape Byron, after the sailor John Byron, grandfather of the acclaimed poet Lord Byron.

The region was colonised at the beginning of the 19th century, after which the town became a centre for timber logging, gold mining, fishing and whaling. A jetty was built in the 19th century, and then the lighthouse opened in 1901 to guide sailors through the treacherous waters, you can catch sight of the remains of a shipwreck off the main beach which pays homage to the dangerous waters. By the turn of the century the town was known as Byron Bay and had become a dairy farming area. Sand mining and whaling occurred well into the 20th century but by the late 1960s surfers had started to arrive, mostly young Americans fleeing conscription from the Vietnam war. In 1973 the Aquarius festival in nearby Nimbin cemented Byron as an alternative ‘hippy’ tourist destination, and the town transformed from a backwater industry town to a tourist hotspot over the 1980s. My family first arrived in the mid 90s, and I was born there in 2000. The damage to the environment that occurred over the 19th and 20th centuries has slowly been repaired by careful and considerate environmental plans, and it is once again a biodiverse and stunning landscape.

This link will send you to a YouTube video produced by some of the indigenous elders and people from Byron, as a digital welcome to country, spoken in Minjungbali

But how on earth do I get there?

Byron Bay is very accessible despite its rural location. There are no trains, but you can fly into Ballina-Byron Airport, if travelling domestically, and drive up the highway following signs to Byron for about 30 minutes. There are hire cars available at the airports, and plenty of buses. Alternatively, if you are arriving from overseas you can fly into one of the international airports at the Gold Coast or Brisbane. Once you have collected your luggage from either of these airports, you can get one of the direct shuttle bus routes straight to Byron bus stop. Brisbane is around 2 hours north and the Gold Coast is 45 minutes. If you want to travel overland from the south, such as driving up from Sydney or Coffs Harbour, there are highways all the way up, and plenty of overnight buses which can be a lot more affordable than flying. Generally speaking, domestic flights in Australia cost under 100AUD, although the pandemic has upped costs of travel. If you are travelling from overseas, make sure you understand the visa process and regulations, as Australian border control is notoriously tough, and their COVID-19 policies even more so.

I have no idea where to stay, can you help?

I can give you some tips! It’s probably best to book ahead, especially in summer when it gets really busy, but there are plenty of fantastic places to stay, suited for every budget or type of traveller, whether you are coming alone, as a couple, with friends or with family. Byron is known as the home of backpackers. There are copious amounts of these places, sprawling with young adults who came to binge drink and soak in the sun and the laidback atmosphere. For a party backpacker, look no further than Atlantis. Central town, this place is buzzing every day of the year. The YHA is always a great option, but The Arts Factory Backpackers (as iconically featured in The Inbetweeners) which is a little outside of town, gives you a more authentic taste of the place. Another great place to stay is Wake Up! Byron Bay, which is a recently refurbished backpackers on the waterfront at Belongil, one of the quieter beaches. This is a short walk out of town, and has plenty of bikes for hire. However, make sure to bring insect repellent if you’re going to be outside anywhere at dusk, especially the more forested areas.

If you are going for something a bit fancier, or at least something outside of the backpacker raucous, try the 5* hotel The Byron at Byron, or similarly the Elements Resort. The Atlantic is an acclaimed hotel, as is Rae's on Watergos. The prices for these can be a little steep, so if that’s outside of your budget but you’d rather not slum it with the backpackers, check out one of the many motels in the area. They are all pretty much similar in quality. Or you could book a holiday home - look at Airbnb for plenty of options, according to a University of Sydney report over 17% of the total properties in the area are now listed on the website, so you won’t be short of choices.

Now I’m feeling peckish, where is best place to eat out?
Me too! It’s making me hungry even writing this. Byron, as the strange Sydney-Melbourne-Gold-Coast hybrid that it is, is home to plenty of amazing eateries, cafes and coffee shops. Here are a few you don’t want to miss out on:

Asian food in Byron is popular from Asia Joe’s to The Japonaise Kitchen, which is the best sushi in town, no question. The Taste of Melaka is a cheap informal Malaysian restaurant. As well there is Foxy Luu's Vietnamese-Chinese cuisine at its most arty and fashionable, popular with the local teens.

Or you could try Miss Margarita’s, one of the busiest venues in town so book ahead for their great Mexican food. For good old fish and chips head to main beaches’ Fish Heads, where you should try their fantastic grilled Hoki and chips. For dessert go to In the Pink for ice cream or YoFlo for frozen yoghurt.

If you would like to try something a little more fancy head to The Mez Club for cocktails and has beautiful Mediterranean tapas. There is also a restaurant in the centre of town called Fresh where there is something for everyone. Out of town in Newrybar there is a fantastic restaurant and deli called Harvest, pop up there for Sunday lunch or to get some bread on a Saturday.

There are plenty of cafes in Byron, pretty much all of them are fantastic, but here is my pick of the best - Topshop, a little way out of the centre of town is a locals’ coffee and brekkie haunt. Popular with tourists is the best place for acai bowls and smoothies in town is Combi, which looks fantastic in photos! In the region there is The Belle General, Ballina, the best breakfast in the area for sure – I am obsessed with their vegan smashed avocado and coconut feta on toast. In Lennox Head, there is Shelter, which is perfect for lunch and breakfast, if a little on the expensive, but the cost is worth their wraparound windows which overlook the sea.

Okay, but now where should I go? Can you tell me where the best beaches are?
The beaches in Byron Bay are world-renowned for their white sand, and amazing surfing. Outside of the town beach - Main Beach, which is posted with friendly lifeguards and plenty of hippies and tourists alike enjoying the setting sun and the drumming in the evening - there are plenty of other beaches that are worthy of a visit. Head down to the beach in the evening for a BBQ - many of the beaches have facilities to use for free, so you can take some fresh fish or food from the supermarket down to the beach and cook it there. Remember to bring your own cleaning supplies, oil and a spatula. Don’t forget to be SunSmart – wear factor 50 SPF and slip, slop, slap!
Head to Watergos for sunbathing, people watching and admiring the multi-million dollar properties that line the stunning waterfront of this small beach. Here there is an easy, and pretty, walk along a cliff edge boulevard form the centre of town, which heads all the way up to the famous lighthouse. Parking here is almost impossible, so unless you are very patient its best to walk. Just around the corner from this stunning beach is a secluded spot called Little Watergos, if you want some tranquil moments away from the crowds.

Belongil is for walking, running the dogs and the kids, take a kite or a frisbee and go paddle in the Tea Tree Creek that meets the sea at this beach. There is a funky) restaurant just off the beach here called Treehouse. Their pizzas are to-die-for.

Broken Head is outside of town, the place where Chris Hemsworth is often seen taking a dip in the water with the pro surfers. The parking here can get very busy at the height of summer, but the beach itself is usually pretty quiet.

Take wannabe surfers for a go at The Pass, a busy corner of the beaches where the water is perfect for surfing, beginners and intermediates alike. Just up the beach from here is Clarkes, and the famed Beach Byron Restaurant - a cafe with unbeatable seafront views.

This sounds like a really cool place, I’m going to add it to my list of dream travel destinations!

I am sure it will be joining an incredible list of places, and that you will enjoy the town as much as we do when you get around to heading down under. Stay safe and enjoy this little slice of paradise. And please make sure to take your rubbish home, swim between the flags, and 'take three for the sea' when you leave the beach.

ST.ART does not own the rights for any photos used in this article.